Aha, I have been introduced to good coffee in Paris. It’s served in a tiny shop, with hardly any room, and it’s mad cheap (about 2€, compared to about 4€ in the big cafés). Wonderful. And next door is something even better: tiny, buttery pains au chocolat and croissants that are so dainty and delicious that it seems rude not to have two, or maybe even three. Put them on your list: Terres de Cafés et Pain de Sucre, rue Rambuteau in the Marais.