The easiest after-work duck with a yummy watercress, black olive and orange salad

I have been caught out by the change in the weather; whilst outside it is steaming hot and more summer than spring, I still have blogs about parsnip latkes to write. And, however excited I am by the change in season, I haven’t quite got my head round the prospect of salads and new season vegetables yet. Hence this combination of a dish that could easily belong in November with one that brazenly shouts March and proud of it. The duck legs were spare from a night re-testing this recipe with pieces rather than a whole bird (and it works brilliantly; just keep the same proportions of liquid and spicing to four duck legs) but when I came to cook them I realised that the idea of a steamed green as an accompaniment was no longer very enticing. I wanted something refreshing, to honour the sunshine, but also to cut the fattiness of the meat. The result is a combination of Rose Prince’s duck and Jane Grigson’s watercress and orange salad. Both are incredibly simple recipes and require very little effort and yet the results are full of taste and texture, just right for nights when you still want a little roasted warmth but can’t face turning the oven on. Short method, short shopping list, short cooking time…what more could you ask for?! Continue reading

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Delia’s moussaka…no, no don’t go. You want this recipe, honest!

My very first recipe book was The Pooh Cook Book, which I got when I was 11. My name, address and school form (1P2 if you were wondering) are written in blue ink inside the front cover but otherwise the pages are distinctly unmarked. The peppermint creams are the only things I remember making and I mostly remember the fact that they never set. My second was Ginette Mathiot’s Je Sais Cuisiner which, since it was then in Livre de Poche format, was practically unreadable. I touted it round my various student houses but, despite my pride at owning a French cookery book, I never actually used it. My third, well my third was Delia Smith’s Complete Cookery Course which I treated myself to on my 23rd birthday, having just finished the first chapter of my PhD. And this was the book that taught me to cook or, at least, taught me to try cooking, which is not necessarily the same thing. Continue reading

Posted in Aubergine recipes, Delia Smith, Lamb recipes, One pot | Tagged , , , , | 14 Comments

Salmon with butter sauce…or is that beurre blanc?

It’s Friday, tomorrow is St Patrick’s Day and I was inspired by both of those things to cook this Darina Allen recipe, as spotted in the Guardian. Now, she calls the sauce ‘Irish butter sauce’ but, personally, I don’t think you could say this ‘belongs’ to Ireland; it is suspiciously close to both hollandaise and the divine concoction known as beurre blanc which, if you ever visit western France, particularly the Loire, will ruin your tastebuds for anything fancier with fish for the rest of your days. Continue reading

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A little aside: what’s Jean-Marie Le Pen’s favourite food?

You might think, since he is the founder and former president of the Front National and therefore committed to all things ‘naturally’ and ‘intrinsically’ French, that Monsieur Le Pen would also be a committed boeuf bourguignon or bouillabaisse kind of a man. But no, according to French radio, his favourite food is that staple of North Africa: couscous. Oh how I laughed when I heard that.

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Smoked sardine crostini

A completely new ingredient, at least in your own country, is a rarity. So I was delighted to discover smoked sardine fillets in M and S last week. I had no idea what to do with them but, since I needed an easy starter for an after-work dinner on Friday, I adapted this recipe. You could also make a sandwich with the same ingredients or, since the weather has just edged into proper, proper spring (hurrah!), bump up the greenery, thin the sauce with some lemon juice to make a dressing, and make a couple of small crostini per person for a full-blown salad. I can’t wait to eat these outside, on a warm, lavender-scented evening! Continue reading

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Smitten Kitchen’s Fried Egg Sandwich…Make Two

There are some recipes for which I am eternally grateful. The chocolate mousse one that I learnt in France, the tip for a perfect roast chicken, the cheese soufflé that I never get sick of. I have a small collection of favourites that I love so much and have made so often that I no longer need a recipe. This, dear reader, is going to be one of them. It appears on Smitten Kitchen‘s enlightening, funny blog and, well, it is just scrummy. You might think that a fried egg sandwich needs no gilding, bar perhaps some bacon and possibly some ketchup or brown sauce. But this is sooo much more than a fried egg sandwich. It is a salade composée in a bun, a perfect fast food fix that fulfills more than that fix’s basic requirements by adding some taste and sophistication to the mix. I made one yesterday and, if it hadn’t been for the impending early night that a 9am flight had imposed, I could easily have been tempted by another. Go on, they’re only little… Continue reading

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St John Hotel: great food in an uninspiring location. And the service…hmm.

Leicester Square and its environs have to be the most uninspiring places to eat in Central London. Bar a few exceptions in and around Chinatown, most of the offerings are dull, depressing and overpriced. No one needs to try too hard: due to the massive footfall even if one crowd of tourists leaves unhappy there will be another unsuspecting lot the next day. Which is why I was delighted to hear that the newest St John restaurant was opening just off this merry hell. Especially since, in the pantheon of places I really really wanted to try, this was first on the list. And, whereas you need plenty of notice to get into the Clerkenwell original, it seems that a week is enough for the hotel branch. So, two weeks ago, off I went, thrilled at the prospect.

Continue reading

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Poached Asian duck…bloody marvellous and easy peasy

Poaching is now officially one of my favourite ways to cook meat. Chicken and pork come out beautifully juicy, without a trace of overdoneness and now, ha, this recipe shows how wonderful duck can be cooked in the same way. You can prep the whole thing ahead of time, then chill and reheat it (which also allows you to scrape off a lot of the very precious fat to save for roast potatoes), but it is just as good made on the day you want to eat it. Not the quickest thing on this blog but definitely one of the easiest and most satisfying. One of the friends I made this for loved it so much that she went to fetch the casserole dish from the kitchen and then proceeded to eat every last scrap. We demolished almost 2kg of duck between, erm, three of us… Continue reading

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Blog, Interrupted

Apologies, dear readers. Thanks to a chest infection and laryngitis I haven’t cooked anything of interest for over a week, hence the silence. But, although I still sound like a horse I am finally well enough to contemplate the cookery books again. So I shall be back tomorrow, catching up with some blogs I hoped to post last week and renewing my acquaintance with my favourite reading material. I am so delighted to have my energy and appetite back.

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Mussels with sherry, bacon and crabmeat

Mussels are probably my favourite seafood. Cheap, easy to get hold of and not in the least bit faffy to cook, they fulfil my desire for the pleasure of the taste without any of the pain. I have watched crabs and lobsters going into the pot still moving and coming out not so mobile and, although I love eating them, I just can’t cook them. Somehow, even though I know that mussels are still alive, the fact that they don’t have eyes makes it a tad easier. Yes, yes, hypocritical I know. Anyway, enough of the ethics; if I really cared about such things I would be a card-carrying vegetarian. And that I am not. This is a really, truly amazingly easy recipe and, although I was inspired by this, the final version was very much my own. I really felt like I was cooking something that I had developed myself and the two happy testers, who both normally hate brown crabmeat, loved it in this. I’d suggest if you can’t get hold of it, or don’t want to use it, that you add a pinch of saffron to the pan instead with the sherry. I also think a bit of fresh red chilli chopped up or a tad more garlic wouldn’t go amiss. This will take you 30 minutes, tops, even with the cleaning and it is absolutely bloody gorgeous.

For two main course portions or three largish starter portions

Cupboard (or things you may already have)
garlic cloves, 3
olive oil, 2-3 tablespoons
sea salt and black pepper

Shopping list
fresh live mussels, about 900g (the bags in the supermarkets are usually about that weight)
cooked brown crabmeat, 50g
dry sherry (fino or manzanilla), 200ml
smoked streaky bacon, about 50g (a couple of rashers or so)
sourdough bread, a couple of slices per person
fresh flat-leaf parsley, a handful

How to
1. Clean the mussels by putting them in a sink or bowl filled with cold water and scrubbing the surface of the shells (barnacles and grit don’t taste nice). Pull any ‘beards’ (small bits of seaweed, usually clamped tight in the shell) out and off too. Chuck away any broken ones or ones that don’t close when you tap them (dead ones are no friend to your stomach).
2. Peel the garlic cloves and chop two of them, snip the bacon up into small pieces and wash and chop the parsley.
3. Put a tablespoon of the olive oil into a large lidded frying pan and fry the garlic and bacon for a couple of minutes until the garlic is just colouring.
4. Tip in the mussels, sherry and crabmeat, season, cover with the lid and leave to steam for a couple of minutes.
5. Once the mussels have been steaming for a few minutes, take the lid off the frying pan and shake the pan a little to make sure that all the mussels have taken the flavours of the broth. Let the liquid reduce a little.
6. Whilst the mussels are cooking, toast the sourdough bread and then rub the surface of the toasts with the remaining garlic clove. Finally, dribble some olive oil over the bread too.
7. Tip the mussels into large bowls, pouring the juice over the top of them, garnish with some flat-leaf parsley and serve with the toasts.

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