Warm salads for cold days: black pudding, caramelised apple and walnut

Defeated by this weather, I am yet again struggling to move into ‘spring’ food mode. I had a baked potato this week ffs! I haven’t had one of those all winter but this endless rain just sent me into a hibernate-and-turn-the-heating-on frenzy and all I could think of eating was stodge with added fat on top (sour cream and blue cheese if you’re interested). But there is only so much winter heaviness I can stand, even in this deluge, so I am once again looking for ideas that taste ‘warm’ whilst, at the same time, knowing that the sun is a long way off…

In such weather the salade composée, which has no real translation, is your friend. All you need is a layer of something soft and green (for a mild flavour to which you’ll add stronger flavours, go for lamb’s lettuce, Little Gem or Romaine; if you want more of a kick with a soft cheese, then watercress, land cress and rocket are better choices) to which you add the contrasts of hot (e.g. bacon, pancetta, poached eggs, boiled or steamed new potatoes), salty (e.g. feta, anchovies, olives), crunchy (e.g.croutons, toasted nuts, blanched green beans) or soft (e.g. goat’s cheese, soft-boiled or hard-boiled eggs, sautéed mushrooms, roasted squash). I think four different flavours and/or textures is plenty if you don’t want to lose their respective characters. Continue reading

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Turning a dullard into a diva: a pork chop transformed

Pork chops; not very exciting are they? Now, a lamb chop, even when it is simply grilled is a thing of beauty already but then throw in some feta, lemon and thyme and, well, it is completely wonderful. It helps that you don’t have to cook lamb all the way through whereas pork chops are not something I particularly want to eat rare. And whereas lamb chops make me think of holidays in Greece and the much-lamented and missed Ta Dilina in N19, pork chops make me think of unimaginative dinners, at home and at school. So I was intrigued by Simon Hopkinson‘s rather Alpine transformation of this very uninspiring cut.

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Peter Gordon’s roasted butternut squash with chilli butter and poached eggs

Already dismissed this as some hippy-dip-shit student food which you wouldn’t deign to eat? Ah, don’t be misled. The Antipodeans know how to do brunch (try Lantana or Granger & Co if you don’t believe me) and brunch dishes, as far as I am concerned, are perfect weeknight nosh. Fast, filling and comforting, they are like nursery food for grown ups and why save the wonders of eggs or asparagus Benedict just for weekends? I am not sure I would really want butternut squash with my morning coffee so this would perhaps be a step too far from my usual choices but for a quick supper it is divine. I love yogurt with olive oil and garlic as a dressing for vegetables (Ottolenghi’s aubergines with saffron yogurt is stunning too) and, once you throw in the chilli butter and eggs this is a wonderful combination of easiness and impressiveness.

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The first asparagus: how do you eat yours?

It’s here! The first English asparagus, the best vegetable on the planet as far as I am concerned and, alas, a very short-lived one. I spotted some on sale as I walked home and all thoughts of the butternut squash I was planning to cook disappeared. I then proceeded to exhaust myself thinking of all the possible ways to cook it; a risotto came to mind, then a tart, then trying to make a hollandaise at last…but then I stopped. On its first outing of the year, I decided against anything complicated. I steamed it with butter then dipped the spears into some soft-boiled eggs. Spring on a plate.

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Fast ‘preserved’ lemon zest and a five-minute gnocchi dish

A little preserved lemon is a wonderful thing, especially in anything vaguely North African. But they are very expensive (a jar of about 10 will, for example, cost you about a fiver in Waitrose or slightly more in Sainsbury’s) and, if you want to make your own, you have to wait two months for the result. So I was intrigued by a recipe in The Modern Pantry Cookbook which suggested that the same flavour, an intense sour saltiness, could be achieved in fifteen minutes. Fifteen! For something that normally takes several weeks. Reader, she wasn’t lying. Continue reading

Posted in One pot, The Modern Pantry Cookbook, Tips you won't want to live without, Vegetarian recipes | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

A perfect foodie Saturday: Maltby St market, Monmouth coffee and Catalan treats

London foodieness can be a tad exhausting. The best places to eat take months to get into, the newest places don’t take reservations and keeping up with what’s hot and where to go often makes me want to retreat to a land where baked beans on toast is a completely acceptable evening meal. But sometimes you have an experience that reminds you how absolutely brilliant it can be, how completely innovative, inspiring and exciting and just, well, just so damn good. Yesterday I went on a food photography course run by Paul Winch-Furness and not only did I finally, after seven years, learn how to use my much-loved workhorse of a Leica on the manual setting but, in the process I ate amazing food, met wonderful people and came out feeling totally reinvigorated about blogging, photography and how I still have so much to try, cook and eat.
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The Cook Shelf: Odd Bits and pork rillons

Pork belly, as far as I am concerned, is one of the most interesting meats to cook. I am partial to a nice blue steak, preferably a French pavé cut served with a slab of melting Roquefort and some really good gratin dauphinois, roast chicken is easily done and so rewarding, but pork belly, as I have discovered since starting this blog, lends itself to some of the most marvellous and improbable transformations. Roast chicken and steak, gorgeous as they are, don’t really change much beyond the flavourings and side dishes, whereas pork belly is an absolute chameleon and a globetrotting one at that. Just this year I have used it to make Mexican carnitas, a Chinese-inspired twice-cooked dish and a wintry roast. All delicious and, in most instances, very low impact in terms of work. And now here’s another, from a book devoted to the unsung (though more sung these days) heroes, the lesser cousins of fillet steak and the unwanted siblings of the loin chop.
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Ottolenghi’s burnt aubergine dip

It was summer last week, or at least it felt like it till the sun went down. I was in short sleeves, sandals, my coat thrown jauntily across my arms. Today, however, in the self-same outfit, I felt rather foolish shivering behind my desk. Tomorrow there will be socks. And boots. Perhaps even a scarf. But though the temperature is retreating, my head and tastebuds have moved on and there is no going back. Last week, as the sun went down I indulged in this dip with my neighbours; it is a classic Ottolenghi recipe, full of taste and texture and yet, for once, not very complicated. All you need to do is bake an aubergine or two, let them cool, then mix the flesh with the other ingredients. Okay, it’s not necessarily an after-work dinner or even that quick but I guarantee you that, whether wearing socks or flip-flops, it will make you feel summery. Continue reading

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Erm…look what I’ve got!

A business card, with the most beautiful typography. Thank you Mr David Pearson; I love it.

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Something for the weekend…a little glass of red perhaps?

A friend of mine once described the internet as a library with all the books thrown on the floor; finding what you need or want in those circumstances can be impossible. But then sometimes, in the muddle, you find something that you weren’t looking for or even expecting. A week or so ago, in a Bookseller update, I read about yet another blogger getting a book deal (jealous? me? no…) and since it was one I hadn’t heard of I went to visit the blog. Called The Knackered Mother’s Wine Club, it is written by an ex-wine buyer who, as she puts it, wants ‘to share wine knowledge in the hope that other knackered mothers are interested in what’s in my glass at the end of the day. Strictly no insipid wines allowed. Unless too tired to care.’ I’m not a mother but I am often knackered and, though I hate bad wine, I love recommendations. And hers are pretty good. Continue reading

Posted in Random bits that don't belong in a category..., Vegetarian recipes, WTF do I drink tonight? | Tagged , , , , , | 6 Comments