Making something out of nothing: Glamorgan sausages

How often do you have an empty fridge, or an almost empty one? Apart from when you move house that is? I used to be really happy when mine was bursting with food but that has changed: perhaps because I’m more aware of how little is needed to make a meal, perhaps because I know that some of that fridge-full will be wasted or perhaps because I find too much stuff overwhelming, I now like my fridge to be leanly stocked. And this week I’m pushing myself to see how lean it can be. I grilled some defrosted lamb to eat with the mojo yesterday and today I made these ‘sausages’, which are a perfect way to use up breadcrumbs, past their best hard cheeses like Cheddar and the odd onion or two. Continue reading

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Coriander mojo

Mojo in English means an amulet, charm or magic spell, or the ability to cast such a spell. But in Spanish, mojar is to soak or dip so a mojo, at least in the Canary Islands, is a dip, like the ubiquitous hummus or taramasalata. I quite like the idea, even if it’s not technically a direct translation or link, of a dip having a certain magic because it is more and more obvious to me that knowing the basics of how to make the simplest of sauces (and there is nada more simple than a dip) can really add to your cooking repertoire.

Continue reading

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HFW’s Fish Fight app and simple fried mackerel with garlic and bay

I’m a bit late today and for that I apologise. It’s mainly because I spent yesterday defrosting the fridge and, well, I was a bit overwhelmed with breadcrumbs, bits of unrecognisable protein and some half-thawed coconut milk. My appetite was no more. Although I’m always complaining about not having a freezer I sometimes wonder if it is such a loss. After all, unless you are really disciplined, it’s the place where food goes to die. How many times have you defrosted yours and thrown away stuff with freezer burn, stuff that has been in there so long it’s unrecognisable or, in my case, tiny amounts of something that need a whole shopping expedition to be made viable (that coconut milk…)? Yes, thought so. In fact the only decent and usable piece of food, bar lime leaves which I defrost and refrost at will, was one lonely mackerel fillet. A lovely lilac one, as per its sibling of a few weeks ago, which I was determined not to waste.

And, since I recently downloaded Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s free Fish Fight app I thought I’d see if it would break my app duck: every one that I have downloaded so far (Martha Stewart Everyday Food, Real Simple No Time to Cook and This Morning Food) looks great but hasn’t really offered me any kind of inspiration or instruction. The River Cottage one is an exception. Continue reading

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Canteen’s Welsh rarebit

The flip-flops had their revenge. Having called them ignominious yesterday my only pair, a sort of open-air trainer with a good solid sole that is ideal for negotiating London’s pavements and platforms, gave up on me tonight. There I was walking along, making a quip to three Welsh police officers about their whereabouts (how did I know they were Welsh? Because it said ‘Heddlu‘ on their bulletproof vests) when I stepped on an uneven paving slab and felt something give. The shoe. The police officers probably thought I was drunk but, in fact, the toe-post, as I believe they are known, had practically snapped and I was left with a sole but no grip (that sounds very like some new-agey self-help book title). Unevenly, and very slowly, I walked the rest of the way home, wondering if I could sew up the frayed bit. I have had these shoes for five years, they are the sturdiest of summer walking shoes and now, well unless I learn how to stitch leather, they are no more.

Feeling sorry for myself and it being rather late I needed some fast comfort food to finish off my day. I have been reading Canteen’s book Great British Food, which is one of those glorious hardbacks that you really don’t want anywhere near a kitchen, and, inspired by my rather unbalanced encounter with Cymru’s finest, I decided to try out the Welsh rarebit. I’ve only ever eaten this when I was working in an English pub in Paris, which seems a little odd I grant you, and I have never made it before, which also seems odd since I love it. But, as I had bread to use up, egg yolks left over after my nephew made some amaretti (which were delicious) and everything else is store-cupboard-friendly this seemed appropriate.

I was very impressed by the recipe: even when I divided it in half it made exactly the amount it promised (enough for two slices of bread) which is rare and it didn’t mention seasoning, and needed none. And, when I’m more organised I’ll be trying out one of their signature pies. It’s not the most fanciful of recipe books, full as it is of solid British classics but if they all work as neatly as this one then it is worthy of a few inches of precious cook shelf space. My only criticism is the photography; placed amongst the plates of food are dead animals: stuffed mice on bits of cheese, stuffed hedgehogs snuffling in bowls and a dead blackbird on a pie… I’m not sure that a dead bird is going to inspire me to bake.

Have good, stuffed-animal-free weekends all and see you next week.

Canteen’s Welsh rarebit

For one for supper, or two as a snack, you will need:
(Cupboard or things you may already have):
brown bread, two thick slices
milk, 50ml
butter, 12g (a scant tablespoon)
flour, 12g (another scant tablespoon)
strong cheddar, 75g
Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon
grainy mustard, 1 tablespoon
egg yolk, 1 (technically it should be ½ since the recipe, which serves 4, only uses 1 but I couldn’t be bothered to split it)

Shopping list
pale ale, 25ml (I used London Pride, there being no pale ale in my local shop, but I think something slightly sweeter would be better)

How to
1. Preheat the grill and grate the cheese.
2. Put the milk and ale/beer into a small saucepan and warm through gently.
3. Melt the butter in another, larger saucepan and, once melted, add the flour and stir together over the heat for two minutes.
4. Add the milk/ale mixture to the butter/flour roux and whisk/stir in until the sauce is bubbling and smooth.
5. Take the pan off the heat, add the cheese then add all the remaining ingredients bar the bread (Worcestershire sauce, mustard, egg yolk).
6. Toast the bread on both sides under the grill, take it out from under the heat then pour/spread the sauce over the toast taking it right up to the edges and return it to the hot grill. Cook until the cheese is bubbling and brown and serve. Who needs flip-flops anyway?

Posted in Bread recipes, Canteen, Cheese recipes, Fast food fixes, Ideas for leftovers | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

September store cupboard

September has dawned, sunny and beautiful. And with it comes that sense of a new start, the ‘back-to-school’ feeling of a return to normal patterns of behaviour, after holidays, the silly season and, to my mind anyway, the horrors of summer clothing. God how I love a pair of boots after the ignominy of flip-flops.

It also heralds a change in eating patterns; we’ve not had much in the way of sunshine in the UK this year but, even so, my own diet has relied heavily on sun-inspired foods and ingredients: lemon, basil, chilli as flavourings, halloumi, feta and goat’s cheese as proteins and lots of courgettes, green salad and tomatoes to go with them. Starch hasn’t played much of a role, mostly bread, new potatoes and couscous or bulghur. Continue reading

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Ottolenghi’s ‘double’ couscous salad

Couscous is something I have always loved, ever since I first tried it in France as a teenager. Along with gazpacho, a vaguely original attempt at the whole shebang (veg, meat, harissa and semoule) was one of the first things I ever learnt to cook and it is therefore one of the few dishes I can make from memory. I only know one person who hates it, and even then he only hates the grain (he describes it as ‘cat grit’) so, whether you are making a salad with the grain, or a meat or veg stew with all the bits, it is brilliant  for lots of people. Continue reading

Posted in Ottolenghi The Cookbook, Salad recipes, Summer recipes, The Cook Shelf, Vegetarian recipes | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Summer’s end: roasting the tomato glut

Apparently this has been the coolest UK summer since 1993 though, weren’t we lucky, even if it was wetter than 2010 it wasn’t as wet as 2007, 2008 or 2009…I am not yet in socks every day, nor is the heating on, but it feels very close. I like the autumn and usually I’d be looking forward to it, except it’s too d**m early! The summer seems so long ago already, now that it practically starts in April and ends in June, that I’m not sure what season we’re in right now. Sumtumn? Aummer? Continue reading

Posted in Spring vegetable recipes, Summer recipes, Tomato recipes, Vegetarian recipes, Yotam Ottolenghi | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Summer roast potatoes

New potatoes are de rigueur throughout the warmer months but as the weather starts to turn the thought of a proper roast potato, crunchy and dipped in gravy, makes even the autumn an inviting prospect. But new potatoes don’t mind being roasted too and it’s easy to turn them into a summery version. This is one of the most used recipes in my file; it is, of course, very simple but it’s also a great way of getting that roasted taste without the parboiling. Olive oil is used in the original but if you have some duck/pork/beef fat leftover from cooking a joint then use that to make the potatoes extra delicious. Continue reading

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Peter Gordon’s gnocchi with feta and tomato sauce

Salad was my plan today, or something about how to build one with different elements. But oh my, the weather; if it rains much more I think the colour might be washed out of the sky for good. I’m sitting in my flat, windows closed, wearing a fleece. A fleece! On an August afternoon. So salad was not really inspiring me; warmth was required, and a bit of sunshine in the form of hot tomatoes and melted cheese. And nothing too faffy; there is something about unseasonal weather which makes me miserable and then I’m at risk of mucking up whatever I’m making and wishing I’d stuck to toast. Continue reading

Posted in Cheese recipes, Chefs, Cook at home with Peter Gordon, Cookery writers, Fast food fixes, Pasta and gnocchi recipes, Peter Gordon, Peter Gordon, Summer recipes, The Cook Shelf, Vegetarian recipes | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Ottolenghi’s grilled mackerel with pesto and courgettes

Doesn’t that mackerel look astonishing? It was such a beautiful lilac pink that it seemed a shame to cook it but, well, needs must when the stomach grumbles. I saw this recipe on the Guardian’s site at the weekend and the thing that interested me about it was the use of sorrel in the pesto. You’re thinking in a Clouseau-esque way but, ha, Louise, you have made ze typo: zer is no zorrel in your title. And you’d be right in one respect and wrong in another. Continue reading

Posted in Fish recipes, Gluten-free, One pot, Recipes from magazines and newspapers, Spring vegetable recipes, Summer recipes, The Guardian, Wheat-free, Yotam Ottolenghi | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment