Dorie Greenspan’s lamb and apricot tagine recipe

I’m a bit late today, for which I apologise. My Mum arrived from the States this morning and, well, there was a flat to vacuum and a bathroom to clean before I could think about WTF we are going to eat later. But while I was scrubbing the tiles, and de-cat-hairing the sofa, I decided that I wanted something quite warming (it’s still unseasonably cool here in London) so not salad, and something easy, so I’m not spending hours in the kitchen when I could be talking to her. This tagine is a perfect solution and probably the best recipe I’ve tried (and I’ve tried the likes of Moro and Claudia Roden). It’s not technically the quickest thing in the world to cook, especially not after a day at work, nor is it that short on ingredients but there is very little to do once the prep is over. And, if you are organised enough to make it the night before you want it, or early in the day, it’s very happy to be reheated. Continue reading

Posted in Around My French Table, Dorie Greenspan, Lamb recipes, One pot, Summer recipes, Wheat-free | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

An old favourite: watermelon and feta salad recipe

Watermelon always seemed the ultimate treat. After all, my childhood was spent watching cartoons in which any success was celebrated with a ‘slap-up’ feast full of large wedges of the stuff. But, since it was absent from 1970s Britain (or at least absent from our local Lipton’s supermarket), I was disappointed when, as an adult, I finally got to try it and it did, indeed, taste of water.

That all changed when I moved to a part of North London that is full of Turkish and Greek-Cypriot shops. They have the best feta, halloumi, herbs and olive oil all year round and, I discovered, their watermelon is lovely too (though even the good stuff really only tastes of sweet water). About three weeks ago, a large square wooden box, open on one side appeared in my local Turkish grocer. From now until September it will be full of whole watermelons, with a couple of inviting smile-like pieces balanced on top to show how ripe they are. This ‘cage’ full of green and red fruit comes out every year and its arrival is a sure sign that summer, such as it is, is on its way. The melon’s colour has been a bit pale for me so far but now that it’s starting to turn a tempting deep red it’s time to crack open this recipe which is a perfect balance of salt and sweet, crunchy and soft. It may seem a bit too chilly for such a salad tonight but, apparently, it’s going to be 30° on Monday…

Watermelon and Feta Salad (adapted from Nigella Lawson’s recipe)

For two you will need:

Cupboard (or things you may already have)
extra virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon or so (15ml)
freshly ground black pepper

Shopping list
small red onion (you’ll need half)
pitted black olives, 30g
lime
400g piece ripe watermelon
Feta cheese, 75g
small bunch/handful fresh flat-leaf parsley, stalks removed and leaves intact (i.e. don’t chop them up, you want it to remain leafy)
small bunch fresh mint, chopped

How to
1. Peel the red onion, cut it in half (root to tip) then cut each half widthways into semi-circles. Juice half of the lime, put the onions into a small non-metallic bowl and mix in the juice. Leave for a few minutes so that the juice softens the texture and flavour of the onion. (Nigella writes that the steeping brings out the ‘transparent pinkness’ of the onions and ‘diminishes their rasp’. I confess that’s all a bit faffy for me sometimes and I haven’t really noticed much difference on the occasions when I haven’t done it).

2. De-seed the watermelon (use whichever way suits you best; either cut the seeds out when it’s all in one piece or when it’s in smaller pieces) and cut the red flesh into bite-sized chunks. Put them in a large salad bowl.

3. Cut the feta into bite-sized pieces too and add them to the watermelon

4. Wash the herbs, remove the stalks from the parsley, chop the mint and add to the feta and watermelon.

5. Tip the onion-lime juice mix over the salad, add the oil and olives, then toss very gently. Add freshly ground black pepper and taste. It may need a bit more lime juice but, depending on the saltiness of your feta, it shouldn’t need any salt.

Posted in Cookery writers, Nigella Lawson, One pot, Salad recipes, Summer recipes, Vegetarian recipes, Wheat-free | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Caramelised pork salad

Today, after rather an overdose of olive oil with the Spanish tapas this week, and the confits last, I am going back to the Antipodes for a burst of flavour and colour that owes nothing to the Mediterranean. This is a very fast way to turn some relatively plain pork shoulder into a zingy salad. It’s adapted from a Donna Hay recipe in Off the Shelf (her best book in my opinion) and, whereas she describes it as Thai, I think that the use of mint makes it more Vietnamese-inspired. Bit of a long shopping list but the shortness of the method hopefully compensates for that. You could serve some steamed rice or noodles too but I rather like its light starch-free-ness. Continue reading

Posted in Cookery writers, Donna Hay, Fast food fixes, Off the Shelf, One pot, Pork recipes, Salad recipes, Summer recipes, The Cook Shelf | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Habas con jamon…broad beans with ham recipe

There’s still tortilla in the fridge, the first of the broad beans are finally starting to appear and, inspired by the Spanish theme yesterday I keep thinking about ‘habas con jamon’ to serve with the leftovers. Habas, or beans, are one of the most common things served in tapas bars in Spain and though they can be horrible if overdone, over-oiled and out of season, at this time of year the young ones are delicious especially like this. This is a dish that is low on ingredients and effort and, if you close your eyes and block out the sound of the drizzle, the taste could almost transport you to sunnier climes… Continue reading

Posted in Fast food fixes, Green veg recipes, One pot, Spring vegetable recipes, Summer recipes, Wheat-free | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Tortilla de patatas: a proper Spanish omelette

They have something called a tortilla francesa on café menus in Spain and anything less French I have yet to see. Flat like a pancake, usually cooked to complete dryness, it has none of the fluffy, yet rich lightness I would personally associate with an omelette in France. Similarly, with a Spanish omelette anywhere but Spain, you rarely end up with anything resembling a proper tortilla. They’re not thick enough, not cooked slowly enough and are usually just a normal omelette with some filling ingredients thrown in at the last minute. Like its French cousin, a tortilla is a bunch of eggs beaten with vegetables, but it requires not just a particular method but also a particular pan for it to be more than that: it should be cooked in a round, deep-ish (at least 3cm-deep) frying pan, preferably one with straightish sides and you need a plate that fits over the top to turn it. I have a pan that is about 20cm across which makes a tortilla for two people. Unlike a French omelette, a tortilla can be eaten cold, and in slices; unlike a French omelette a tortilla is sturdy and cooked all the way through and, unlike a French omelette, and how apt for the two territories, the tortilla is made in bulk for sharing, not as an individual dish.

Continue reading

Posted in Egg recipes, Fast food fixes, Gluten-free, One pot, Spring vegetable recipes, Summer recipes, Vegetarian recipes, Wheat-free | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

For the days when…puttanesca recipe

…you want summer sunshine and there is only rain.
…you’re so late home from work that even the cats won’t speak to you.
…you’d quite like to go out for a drink but you’re too tired to organise it.
…you have nothing to eat, except things in tins, dried-up bits of cheese and some pasta.

For those days there is this, a sauce so full of flavour and heat that it blows away memories of a wet June Friday in less than an hour. It’s wonderful in warm weather too, though that may be a difficult thing to remember right now. Continue reading

Posted in Cookery writers, Delia Smith, Delia Smith's Summer Collection, Spring vegetable recipes, Summer recipes, The Cook Shelf | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

An unforgettably good way to cook fish

I’m sorry for that rather vague and over-long title. I thought that if I called this ‘salmon confit’ you would switch off, because I’m getting a bit too fancy and, if I mentioned the words star anise and cardamom then, well, I’d have lost you. But, although you could level all of those complaints at me and this recipe to a certain degree, I hope that, if you’re a fish-eater, you will excuse everything because of this technique. Fish, especially salmon, can be difficult to get just right: what I want is that fabled crispy skin and flesh that flakes just so…what I usually get is skin that’s either a bit burnt or soggy and flesh that’s flaky in the sense of failed. Which is why I was intrigued by the idea of cooking it, completely covered, in warm olive oil. I’ve read about the method several times but never dared try it, especially not on guests; how can just warm oil, off the heat, cook a piece of raw flesh? And not make it taste really oily? I don’t know, but it does and the fish is luscious. You don’t get a crispy skin but I’m willing to forego that for the rest. Continue reading

Posted in Fish recipes, Summer recipes, Wheat-free | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Puy lentil salad with goat’s cheese, spinach and pine nuts

Comfort food isn’t something I often associate with the summer. It’s a description I tend to use for sausages and mash, roast dinners and bowls of soothing Thai chicken soup. But sometimes I crave a particular taste, a particular combination that I know will make me feel, if not warm and comforted, at least a little better. I suppose it must be something to do with familiarity, the need for food that can be made on auto-pilot instead of something that requires thought. Last night I didn’t want invention; I wanted repetition and I wanted, yes I admit it’s weird, a warm Puy lentil salad with goat’s cheese. Unlike other lentils, the blue-green Puy ones don’t go to mush when you cook them so they’re great for a dish like this. They also have to be one of the most beautiful ingredients on the planet.

I’ve made different versions of this (HFW has a recipe, so does Delia Smith and so does Bill Granger) and have learnt that it is gloriously adaptable to whatever you have in the fridge: the cheese can be any soft, mild one (or feta if you want the saltiness); the greenery anything from spinach to flat-leaf parsley to rocket, and the flavourings as simple as olive oil and lemon juice or hyped up a bit with capers and anchovies rather than pine nuts. If you don’t eat the lot when it’s just made, it’s good cold too. Continue reading

Posted in Bill Granger, Cookery writers, Delia Smith, Delia Smith's Summer Collection, Fast food fixes, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, One pot, Random bits that don't belong in a category..., Recipes from magazines and newspapers, Salad recipes, Spring vegetable recipes, Summer recipes, The Cook Shelf, The Guardian | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Roasted tomato and asparagus with basil purée, Parmesan and bacon

June 2011, apparently, has been colder than March. Which means that sometimes though salad seems more seasonal, soup starts to look vaguely attractive. Last night I had it all planned: my friend was coming to stay, I’d got lots of tomatoes and home-grown basil, so I was going to try a roasted tomato soup with basil purée. I just had to decide whether to try Delia’s version or Nigel’s. But then, as the day went on, it got warmer and by the time the tomatoes were in the oven and we were sitting on the terrace drinking too much manzanilla and red wine, the prospect of soup, however summery, seemed all wrong. The purée was made, the stock ready but I couldn’t be bothered to get the blender out. Instead, I roasted some asparagus as well, fried up some chopped up bits of bacon and added that to the asparagus then served them both with grated Parmesan, the purée and some bread. It was perfect, like a plate of substantial and delicious tapas. I’m not sure you can call this a recipe but it’s a great way to make a few ingredients taste like a lot more. Continue reading

Posted in Cookery writers, Delia Smith, Delia Smith's Summer Collection, Fast food fixes, Nigel Slater, Spring vegetable recipes, Summer recipes, The Cook Shelf, The Kitchen Diaries | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Chicken Confit, or how to make a rather wet Monday into something special

I love duck confit but I’ve never made it; in fact I tend to avoid making anything involving duck since it makes the oven filthy (or, at least, fatty) for the next six months and if there is one thing I don’t like cleaning it’s an oven. So I was delighted to discover a recipe for chicken confit: same crisp skin contrasted with soft, squidgy flesh; same gloriously simple and concentrated flavour; same sense of guilty pleasure without the greasy pain of scouring. This recipe, if you can call it that, comes from a now out-of-print book called The Impoverished Gastronome. Having been sacked the author, David Chater, decided to write a book for people like him: ‘a sort of mean cuisine’. And in order to do so he interviewed many famous and not-so-famous chefs in London for dinner ideas that would feed six for a tenner. Now, I must add that the book dates from 1996, which means that, taking inflation into account, his tenner works out at somewhere between £15-£20 in 2011 terms. Even then, though, that’s less than a fiver per head, which is brilliant value in most of the UK and the price of a fancy sandwich in London. And since this recipe comes from the stable of Mark Hix and Tim Hughes, then at Le Caprice, now at Hix and Le Caprice respectively, making it yourself saves you rather more than a fiver… Continue reading

Posted in Chicken recipes, Mark Hix, Summer recipes, The Cook Shelf, The Impoverished Gastronome | Tagged , | 2 Comments