Afghani chicken: a weeknight saviour

I’m a tad allergic to bits of chicken; you know, bits of chicken that have been chopped up and wrapped in plastic. You would be too if you’d read the description of how they are prepared in Not on the Label; it’ll turn you into a vegan in seconds. So, most of the time, I try to buy whole chickens and joint them. But, without a freezer, or a roomful of friends, that is not always practical. And sometimes I just want chicken because there is nothing better or easier than a couple of legs (bone-in, skin on: the closest I’ll go to the nefarious, tasteless ‘chicken breast’) marinated and shoved in the oven for 35 minutes. My favourite of all time remains this chicken with feta because you have to love a recipe that requires so little work and yet contains everything you need. And I am constantly on the lookout for other ‘shove-in-the-oven-but-taste-amazing’ combinations. Here’s the latest: a lemony, nutty, creamy yet not sweet chicken which is definitely going on ‘repeat’ in my kitchen.

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Posted in Chicken recipes, One pot, Wheat-free | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

An Alsacian onion tart…and the wines to go with it

If Spain is my true love in terms of wine now, then Alsace is a very close second. I lived there when I was a student and, although it was probably the most surreal year of my life for lots of reasons (not least my parents getting divorced and selling the house but not telling me till I came home for Christmas…possibly not the best stocking filler ever), I fell in love with the landscape (mountains + higgledy-piggledy villages + vineyards), the food (pork + onions + cumin+ caraway all bathed in Riesling) and the climate (snowy winters + hot summers).

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Posted in Delicious magazine, Food and wine matching, pastry recipes, Savoury tart recipes | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Bad Seed bread

My mission to bake better and easier bread continues apace and this week I found a magic ingredient. Many moons ago, when I was younger and idiotically naïve, I worked in a bar in Paris, which is probably the most impossible experience for someone who finds routine deathly, especially with eight-hour shifts. The beer was amazing though, despite the puns, as was the bread that they made with the spent grain. French hipsters and homesick British expats alike would come in just for the big slices of malty toast and the Welsh rarebits. I have never, before or since, had bread with equivalent softness and richness and, since it seems that their menu now has all the creativity of a curry club night at Wetherspoon’s, I will probably never have it again. So, if I want it I have to make it.  Continue reading

Posted in Bread recipes, Dough | Tagged , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Savoy cabbage and Parmesan soup

There is a moment, about now, when the earth starts to wake up and smell, not in a too-many-dogs-not-enough-flowers way but more in a, well, earthy sort of way. I absolutely love it. I crave light more than warmth so that shift means more to me than anything. As a child it meant being able to ‘play out’ as we called it and as an adult it means the same thing in some ways. Suddenly my terrace is not a dumping ground for bits of debris but somewhere to sit. Suddenly the prospect of walking home is more appealing than the bus (actually, that might always be the case if you ever use the 29…) and, suddenly, or perhaps not so suddenly, the appeal of shedding one of the three jumpers I usually wear to work from home is much greater than the desire to be cosy. Continue reading

Posted in Green veg recipes, Ideas for leftovers, One pot, Plenty, Soup recipes, Yotam Ottolenghi | Tagged , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

The Joys of Spain: almendras, tortillas y unas copitas

Recently someone asked me for restaurant recommendations in Andalucía, where I lived for three months in 2009. I had to admit that I had very few, mainly because why, in a land that entertains standing up, not sitting down, at a bar, not a table, would you choose to sit at a distance from all the action, paying for food when you could eat for free or, at least, for very little and have a lot more fun? Going out for tapas, as far as I am concerned, is one of the most civilised and joyous ways to spend an evening on the planet. And by tapas I don’t mean the UK version of them, where six or so olives (I’m looking at you Bar Pepito) costs about £2; I mean the Granadina way where for every tiny little caña of beer or copa of vino, you get a small piece of tortilla de patatas, a croqueta or a slice of bread with olive oil and Manchego for nothing.

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Posted in Potato recipes, Vegetarian recipes, Wheat-free, WTF do I drink tonight? | Tagged , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

£15 week: can it be done and how does chorizo and cider help?

£15 then, a possible feasible budget for two people for a week? Well, yes and no. Yes, because I made four main meals: a) sausage ragu, b) this risotto (not recommended; overwhelmingly rich and salty), c) this cheese soufflé (ALWAYS recommended), d) celery gratin (enough for two, or four as a side which is how I served it; recipe to come) and a delicious side of Savoy cabbage (details to come). I baked bread and an orange and almond cake and I still had the makings of an Alsatian bacon and cream tart, another side of cabbage, an onion and cider soup and a parsley risotto. So, yes, it can definitely be done. But, here comes the ‘no’. Continue reading

Posted in Fast food fixes, Food for friends, One pot, Pork recipes, Sausage recipes | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

The £15 week: sausage ragu with thyme and caramelised onion mash

After Monday’s post I had a Facebook exchange with a friend about how to eat better for less. I mentioned to him that I’d been spending about £15 per week on food, even though I’m staying in, and therefore cooking more than ever. Granted I’m not eating much meat, nor drinking wine at home, which is unusual, and as I pointed out in January I am relying on this store cupboard. But, even so, my store cupboard is not exactly extensive, not compared to many people’s kitchens, which suggests that everyone should be able to reduce their bills and still eat well. Four things have helped me: Continue reading

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Frugal February

January, it seems, is not quite long enough. At least not long enough for me to share all the frugal tips that I seem to be learning. Focusing on my store cupboard, on what I have rather than what I want/can spend money on is really changing my relationship to food shopping and cooking. First, my fridge is no longer overloaded with more cheese than I can eat. Second, I am only buying one or two perishables at a time, so no more mushy pears or yellowing greens. And third, and third is my favourite, I am finding it a much more creative process than writing out a massive shopping list and spending lots of money. I am using up everything and I can honestly say that, this month, apart from undeniable necessities that aren’t on my store cupboard list, like cat food, loo roll and washing-up liquid, I have only bought refreshers so 1) some bacon 2) dairy (crème fraîche, unsalted butter, milk) and 3) vegetables and fruit. And, before you suggest that I have been eating out for four weeks, I have eaten out, or at someone else’s house, a mere four times. For someone whose usual penny-pinching never sees the light of day once through the doors of Waitrose, this has been a revelation. Continue reading

Posted in Seasonal store cupboards | Tagged , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Turning cabbage into chou: helping you love your greens

Cabbage. Now what does that word conjure up? A soggy, smelly, unappetising vegetable? Or the trendiest green in the winter food wardrobe? I used to be in the former camp, having been raised on overcooked white cabbage at home and having eaten – oh I can hardly bear to recall it – white cabbage with peanuts in a cheese sauce far too many times when a student. If ever there was a recipe that should remind us that reinvention is NOT always a good thing that is it. (What was wrong with us? What was wrong with plain old soup and toast?) But, now that I am imbued with the necessity for local and seasonal produce, now that I have a kitchen groaning with cookery books, I have become much more interested in the cabbage. And so should you be; it’s probably the cheapest green vegetable available in winter, one of the most durable and, I’m discovering, one of the most versatile. Continue reading

Posted in Green veg recipes, Richard Corrigan, The Clatter of Forks and Spoons, Winter vegetables | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

A weeknight rarebit

Things on toast, that’s what you need on a wet, windy Monday. Things on toast that require very little work and no shopping whatsoever. A rarebit, or rabbit as some people call it, is the perfect antidote to effort as well as, conversely, the ideal base for a bit of faffing and tweaking, if you feel like dressing it up. Ultimately, it is cheese on toast, fancied up with mustard, beer and Worcestershire sauce but the permutations are endless: you can make it Welsh (the original, I believe), Irish (with oysters and stout), Buck (with a poached egg on top) or Dutch (which I just invented: use the sauce instead of a slice of cheese on an uitsmijter; I doubt you’ll regret it). Continue reading

Posted in Bread recipes, Cheese recipes | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments